Paella Professor

Paella in San Francisco

2011-02-24T15:36:00.000-08:00

So, when it's raining in San Francisco, what else is one to do but wander the city looking for Spanish / Catalan / Basque joints to eat? That's what I did. Here is my review:

1) Bocadillos: A -

Bocadillos is a great little hideaway in the financial district. It had a Basque flavor more than Spanish, but the menu covers regions all across Spain. Definitely worth the effort to get there.

By and large, we liked this place so much that we went there twice. I had two bocadillos (one of jamon serrano, and one of butifarra (which is a Catalan sausage), both of which were great). We also had maple glazed butternut squash, patatas bravas, sardines and olives, brussell sprouts with pears and jamon, all of which were perfect. My only complaint was some undercooked chorizo . . . but if that's all, then I can't complain.

2) B44: A +

B44 is located down a little alley in the financial district as well. Every restaurant around it was abandoned when we went on a Monday evening, but B44 was jammed. Inside, the decor is "modern catalan," to the extent that I can identify decor.
The highlight of B44: a Paella Cacadora (chicken, rabbit, pancetta, mushrooms, rosemary, and parsley picada) which was unlike any paella I had ever had. It definitely didn't taste "traditional," but it was really really good. I loved this place.

3). Esperpento: B

Esperpento was less "hip" and more "south of spain" than the other two places I have mentioned. It's located in the Mission, sort of out-of-the-way if you are downtown.

We had all kinds of tapas at Esperpento, all of which were good, but let's get to the real situation: The Paella. I had the Paella "Matanza" which has chicken, pork ribs, chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage) and butifarra (catalan sausage). In short, the Paella was pretty good, but a bit oily for my liking. I would have liked to have seen some crust on the bottom, but there was just oil. What's more, blood sausage doesn't belong in a Paella. But, the tapas at Esperpento saved the rest of the meal . . . fun place to be.

So, if I had to recommend one of the three, I would choose B44 (but maybe that's because I am biased toward Catalan fare). But in any event, San Francisco is full of corner bistros full of Spanish food, from tapas to paella. I loved it.

Coming Soon: Paella in San Francisco!

2011-02-15T08:08:00.000-08:00

That's right. I will be in San Francisco sampling the city's best paella over the next week. Stay tuned for my reviews.

Paella To The Masses!

2010-09-09T14:08:00.001-07:00

Let the movement begin! It's time to unleash the goodness of Paella to those unkowing citizens that still cling to Italian cuisine. So, por favor, visit the link below and make the dream happen!

Help Fund The Paella Movement Today!

Paul the Octopus (Pablo El Pulpo)

2010-07-09T09:48:00.000-07:00

So, this octopus has been all the rage during the World Cup due to its uncanny ability to predict the winner of each match with exactness. The soccer-minded octopus predicted the following wins: Germany > Australia, Germany > Ghana, Germany <> England, Germany > Argentina (another surprising pick that came to pass).

In short, this Octopus knows its soccer. And much to the delight of the nation of Spain, Paul the Octopus has picked SPAIN to defeat the Netherlands in Sundays World Cup Championship. If the Octopus is wrong, then I have read of several people threatening to make an Octopus Paella.

Ferran Adrià

2010-06-24T15:34:00.000-07:00

I love this article from the LA Times, which quotes various reviews from individuals who have eaten at El Bulli, supposedly the best restaurant in the world, which is located north of Barcelona, Spain. It sounds like quite the experience. Some sample reviews:

"You come out thinking 'what do I do now?'" -Anthony Bourdain (Travel Channel)

"It might not have been the best meal I've ever eaten, but it was the best something. I just don't know what" -Tim Savinar (San Francisco Attorney)

"Going to El Bulli is like going to an amusement park. I like to go once a year to an amusement park. If someone goes every day to an amusement park, though, they have a psychological problem." -Carlo Petrini (Friend of Ferran Adria)

"It's like the black stone of Mecca, Mona Lisa's smile, the nucleus of the atom, the bank vault, the oval office of the White House, love and sex . . ." -Pau Arenos (Barcelona journalist)

"I had a reaction similar to mourning, as if I had been allowed into an enchanted garden for one evening and had then seen the iron gate close irrevocably behind me when I left." -Andreas Viestad (Washington Post)

"When we tasted a delicious mackerel, my wife told me that she tasted something strongly unpleasant, which I couldn't taste. Shortly after, feeling ill, she went outside and didn't finish her meal. She spent the night violently ill." - Francois Audouze (French collector of wines)

To be fair, the article points out that, to date, nobody has died as a result of Ferran's molecular cuisine.

Best Restaurants in Spain

2010-05-04T13:07:00.000-07:00

According to Pellegrino's annual "World's 50 Best Restaurants," Spain is home to 4 of the top 10 restaurants in the world. Felicidades Espana. They are as follows:

El Bulli #2 (Roses, Spain)

El Celler De Can Roca #4 (Girona, Spain)

Mugaritz #5 (Errenteria, Spain)

Arzak #9 (San Sebastian, Spain)

Truth be told, I've never been privileged to dine at any of these restaurants, especially considering the demand (El Bulli accepts 8000 reservations a year, but over a million are requested). So plan ahead, and start saving your money!

Paella vs. Jambalaya

2010-04-09T11:45:00.000-07:00

If there is one question that sometimes annoys me, it's "so Paella is basically like Jambalaya, right?" I have always answered that with a stern shake of my head. "No, it's not."

Well, I suppose I should amend my answer to a certain extent. Turns out that Jambalaya is actually sort of like Paella (strong emphasis on 'sort of'). As per Wikipedia (an authoritative source for all relevant research), Creole Jumbalaya originated in the French Quarter of New Orleans . . . and was an attempt by the Spanish to make Paella in the New World, where saffron was not readily available due to import costs. So, tomatoes became the substitute for saffron, and then add in some Caribbean influence and spices, and all of a sudden, you have a New World Paella called "Jambalaya."

Now, to be fair, most of this information is gleened from Wikipedia, so I am not 100% confident of its truth. In any event, it gives us something to think about. If you are looking for a how-to or recipe on Jambalaya, I am not your man, nor will I ever be.

To Wet Your Whistle

2010-04-06T16:39:00.000-07:00

Just a photo to 'wet your whistle,' or to 'whet your whistle,' depending on the spelling you subscribe to.

Spring Vegetables & Paella

2010-03-01T10:06:00.000-08:00

It's March 01, and depending on where you live, your "planting season" is coming up quickly. So, for those of you who have a limited space in which to cultivate your Paella ingredients, I am going to give you a rundown of the vegetables you should be planting, from most important to least important:

Tomatoes. Last summer, our tomato plants were exploding, so I started making really tomoto-heavy paellas (I am talking up to 15 tomatoes in one Paella, whereas usually I have used 4 - 7 tomatoes), and I was amazed out how great they were.
Red Peppers. A classic in my Paellas (usually 3 - 5 peppers).
Beans. A classic in any Paella.

Onions. I know, I know, the emails are going to start pouring in saying "you can't put onion in Paella." Well before you send me that email, please be advised that 50% of Spain strongly disagrees with you, so deal with it.

Garlic. Garlic is so cheap at the supermarket that I don't bother to grow it. Just buy it.

So as soon as that ground thaws, get outside and start turning your dirt. Homegrown vegetables make your Paella that much better, and that much more authentic.

Sausage Paella . . .

2010-01-14T15:38:00.000-08:00

If Spain is well know for anything other than bulls, flamenco, windmills, soccer, or Claudia Bassols, then that other is "SAUSAGE" (the NY Times agrees). And in my mind, there is no Paella I love more than a Sausage Paella.

Now, be careful not to use Mexican Chorizo (too spicy for Paella) or Bratwursts (too German, which is never a good thing). Rather, see if you can find some sort of Lamb Sausage (perfect!) or a Non-Mexican (i.e. Spanish) Chorizo Sausage or Andouille Sausage (or something similar). I have even used Aidell's Sausage (which I don't necessarily recommend (it's pre-cooked) but it'll do in a pinch).

Now, the trick with Sausage and Paella is this: you want the sausage in the olive oil as early as possible because it gives off great flavor, but you don't want it cooked so long that it gets dry (which it would if you left it in from beginning to end). The solution? Add the sausage at the beginning for 10 - 12 minutes, then take it out until you introduce the broth, at which time you can reintroduce the sausage. Trust me on this one.

Depressed About the Recession? Head to BARCELONA!

2010-01-07T08:56:00.000-08:00

The New York Times Magazine is reporting that "the best way to beat a case of recession whiplash just might be a trip to Barcelona. Not only is Catalunya's largest city a contagiously happy place, but it also just keeps getting better and better. Why? Recession or not - Spain's economy is in bad shape too - the locals honestly believe their city will be more beautiful, ecological, socially harmonious, and culturally vibrant in the future, and they're probably right."

There is a lot of truth to this statement. Afterall, Barcelona is a very vibrant, eclectic, enthusiastic place. It seems to thrive on its own momentum like no place I have ever lived. For me, it's been much too long since I've been to Barcelona (4 years and counting!), so hopefully one day soon, I'll be back wandering Las Ramblas, or the huge city blocks of Eixample, or the glamorous Passeig De Gracia, or the cobblestone streets of El Barrio Gotic.

In any event, when you do arrive in Barcelona, remember to check out Barcelona's best Paella restaurants. And enjoy.

Feliz Navidad, Bon Nadal, & Zorionak

2009-12-21T16:08:00.000-08:00

The Paella Professor (together with the old man pictured above) wishes all Paella Professor readers a Feliz Navidad in Spain, a Bon Nadal in Catalunya, and a Zorionak in the Basque Country.

The Paella King

2009-12-03T15:12:00.001-08:00

I recently came across this photo in a "Google Image" search, and was greatly impressed with this guy's paella fluency. I've never met an individual who is able to balance 21 paellas (I think I counted 21, but it's hard to tell). And not only that, he is also managing 21 fires (which is often the most difficult part). So hat's off to him!

Also, take a close look at the third paella, and notice the full bulb of garlic. Interesting touch.

Judaism & Paella

2009-11-04T13:10:00.000-08:00

According to the Jerusalem Post, our Jewish siblings may not be enjoying much Paella on a regular basis. According to recent studies, 46% of all Spaniards hold negative views of Jews - the highest level of antisemitism in Europe (Russia & Poland tied for 2nd place with 35%). So to investigate this "issue," Spain's Education Ministry performed a study which revealed that 50% of Spanish students between the age of 12 and 18 said they would not want to sit next to a Jew in school.
The interesting factor in all of this is that I seriously doubt that 99% of Spaniards have ever even met a Jew. With just 20,000 Jews in Spain compared to 40,000,000 Spaniards, Jews represent less than .01% of the population of Spain.
Indeed, 500 years may have passed since Spain expelled the Jews, but Spain is still struggling to embrace a Jew that eats Paella.

A Lorca Update

2009-10-20T09:16:00.001-07:00

This plot of land between the towns of Viznar and Alfacar in the south of Spain, presumably Lorca's resting place, is now under 24 hour a day police surveillance because of the nationwide controversy swirling around it. Furthermore, one of Lorca's nieces, Laura Lorca (below), has suddently decided to offer a DNA sample so that authorities can be sure that the bones are Lorca's.

So stay tuned as tensions in Spain heighten as the day of exhumation draws near.

The Debate To End Shortly . . . in Granada

2009-10-06T09:05:00.000-07:00

Federico Garcia Lorca, perhaps Spain's most famous poet, was gunned down in Granada in the opening days of the Spanish Civil War (1936) by Franco's nationalist troops. However, it is in the last few years that the controversy has really raged; namely because Garcia Lorca's body was deposited in a mass grave, without proper burial or identification. But in the past few years, researchers have located his body, and the plan was to dig him up, and provide him a proper burial.

Sounds great, right? Well, his family didn't think so. They have fought vigorously to let him lie, even filing court papers mandating that no entity disturb the sacred burial place. But now, the Spanish Civil War-era grave believed to hold the remains of the acclaimed poet will be dug up in two to three weeks, an official said Monday, in the most high-profile step yet in a drive for Spain to address atrocities committed against civilians during that ruinous conflict.

What does any of this have to do with Paella? Surely, having been born and raised in Granada, Garcia Lorca's poetry was inspired by orchards, olive oil, sun-filled skies, dry hills, and Paella.

Empieza el llanto de la guitarra.

Se rompen las copas de la madrugada.

Empieza el llanto de la guitarra.

Es inutil callarla.

Es imposiblecallarla.

Llora monotona como llora el agua,

como llora el viento sobre la nevada.

Es imposible callarla.

Llora por cosas lejanas.

Arena del Sur caliente que pide camelias blancas.

Llora flecha sin blanco, la tarde sin maсana,

y el primer pajaro muerto sobre la rama.

Oh guitarra!

Corazon malherido por cinco espadas.

(-Federico Garcia Lorca . . . La Guitarra).

The Basque Map

2009-09-30T10:29:00.001-07:00

While the Basque Country in Northern Spain is not well-known for its Paella, I must admit that it is perhaps the second most fascinating corner of Spain (after Catalunya, of course). In today's New York Times, Sarah Wildman writes a nice piece about the geography of the Basque Country, namely where it begins, and where it ends. Regardless of her lack of conclusion, she begins in Lekeitio, a town I visited in 2006 while meandering through Basque land:

"At twilight in early summer, when the warmth of the day has cooled enough for sweaters and jeans but the lingering light still renders the last beach walkers in ghostly shadow, the tiny Basque port of Lekeitio fairly glows. Red and blue boats bob expectantly, prepped and waiting for fishing excursions; seafood restaurants open side by side along the orderly docks, ready for customers; and the fishermen and women inside the 17th- and 18th-century homes facing the water begin to open windows, catching the summer night breeze and pulling in the day’s laundry, now dry."

What I am about to say now will be controversial to many Spain-lovers: Everyone who goes to Spain should visit the Basque Country (even though Paella is difficult to find). To read Wildman's whole article, click here.

(A woman enjoys pintxos, or tapas, at Bar Itxas-Ondo in Bakio. Notice the plates of Tortilla de Patata!?).

Eat Lots Of Paella, Live A Looooong Life.

2009-09-22T16:05:00.000-07:00

The health benefits of the "Mediterranean Diet" have been well-documented over the last few years. And if any single dish exemplifies the so-called Mediterranean Diet, it has to be paella. Think about it: Olive oil, garlic, onion (although highly debateable), tomatoes, peppers, sea food, or some lean poultry. It is a health-nut's dream come true! According to many sources, the following are the benefits of eating paella:

The Olive Oil is rich in monounsaturated fat, which can lower total cholesterol and LDL cholesterol while increase HDL cholesterol (the good cholesterol). It is also a source of antioxidants including vitamin E.

Fish, especially "oily fish," is high in omega 3 fatty acids, a type of polyunsaturated fat which can also lower cholesterol. In 2002, the American Heart Association made a recommendation to the general public to include at least 2 servings of fish per week.

Vegetables are high in beneficial fibers and antioxidants, which are protective against both heart disease and cancer. Indeed, a recent study published in January 2006 by London researchers showed that 5 servings of fruits and vegetables reduce the risk of stroke by 25 percent.

30% Reduced Risk of cardiovascular disease.

Reduced Risk of cancer.

83% Reduced Risk of developing Type 2 Diabetes.

Alleviation of pain for sufferers of Arthritis.

When I lived in Barcelona, not a day went by without some Spaniard (or Catalan, to be more precise) preaching to me about the celestial benefits of the Mediterranean Diet. It looks like the research backs them up. So go ahead and fire up the coals . . . Eat Lots Of Paella.

Paella With Chicken Drumsticks

2009-09-11T10:39:00.001-07:00

There is a movement gaining speed throughout Spain (and in my backyard, gracias a mi mujer) which mandates that all Paellas have chicken drumsticks for the following reasons:

The chicken bones add flavor to the Paella, just as throwing bones into a soup creates a nice broth; and
In the Paella, the chicken (on the bone) doesn't get dry like a sliced chicken breast can; and
Chicken drumsticks make the paella look more Spanish, more mountainous, more 'rural-european,' more 'black-and-white-photo,' more 'early-twentieth century.'

And here is a hint: if you are making your Paella on the grill, take the drumsticks out for a few minutes at the beginning and grill them to get a nice 'grilled' flavor before it goes back into the Paella.

The Corrective Association of the Non-Paellas Which Dare to Call Themselves Paellas

2009-08-25T13:20:00.000-07:00

The comment below was left on Paella Professor ten days ago. Now, ten days later, I cannot decide whether to laugh at, mourn for, or sign-up for the cause. Is it a revolution? An elitist bureacracy? A joke? I am not sure yet. But the idea itself has fascinated me.

"Three friends of mine are currently putting together, with permits and whatever else is required, an organisation that they consider to be necessary for these turbulent times. They will present the required documents to the relevant administration in order to be able to take action throughout Spain, from the Ramblas in Barcelona to the beach shacks. The group wants to call itself the "Corrective Association of the Non-Paellas which dare to call themselves Paellas." Yes, it's a long name, but, at a stroke, the message is fully conveyed. It's hardly worth mentioning that the three founding members are paella lovers. That is, real honest-to-goodness paellas, those made with the local varieties of green beans and fava beans, of rabbit and chicken, the odd snail and that final addition of a rosemary sprig. Each of them represents a different aspect of what surrounds a dish. Pedro, a genuinely knowledgeable gastronome, José María, accomplished restauranteur and the third, Carlos, expert eater and paella base toasted socarrat scraper. They don't consider themselves to be purists but regard themselves merely as defenders of that which is made in the proper way. And this is precisely what has pushed these three friends to invest part of their time in getting the idea going and ordering the fabrication of hundreds of large stickers. Some of them in red bearing the message "You won't find Paella here," others in green with the words "These are definitely Paellas." Lately, and curiously enough the current financial crisis has had nothing to do with it, anything made in a paella pan is being classified as "paella". And so we are observing things like rice with chistorra sausage, or a mussel melange, or with poached eggs being given the name 'paella with chistorra,' or 'mussel paella' or paella with poached eggs.' Any old stew is getting called paella just as any old brew is called coffee. The serious side to this, and it isn't about applying some redundant purist sensibility, is that we are allowing a dish, a food, which forms part of the culinary heritage of our region to be trampled into the ground. It's got nothing to do with globalisation and who has the right to use the 'brand,' it's about having a bit of good taste. And that's what these three friends are about."

I love an upheaval as much as the next guy, but this "Association" vaguely reminds me of the Visceral Realist Poet Movement in Roberto Bolaño's novel The Savage Detectives. Namely, of what significance was the movement? Exactly! (Get it?)

Artichoke Paella (Schneider Redeemed)

2009-08-12T13:03:00.000-07:00

After my grilling of Edward Schneider (NY Times) for his inclusion of corn in a Paella, I received some scathing comments myself. Namely, "How come you're deriding Schneider as a heretic and taking Bittman seriously? At least Schneider has just published a decent rundown of "Arroz con alcachofas - Arròs amb carxofes - Rice with artichokes". There's a real struggle going on to relinquish the word 'paella' in favour of 'Arròs' and he almost manages it. Bravo Schneider!"Well, whatever. Point taken. Schneider does indeed offer a good rundown on artichokes in Paella (or for the more culinary correct among us: Arrós). And lest we not forgot, I too am a big fan of artichoke in Paella. For those of you willing to forgive Schneider, here is an abridged version:

When my friend Marta told me that her mother, who is from Tarragona in southern Catalunya and who now lives not far from Barcelona, makes rice with artichokes – l’arròs amb carxofes – I had imagined something austere, with few flavors, perhaps not even starting with a classic sofrito. But then Marta e-mailed me (from Catalunya yet) with the surprising information that “apart from artichokes, and apart from the sofrito, my mum uses pork rib, botifarra [sausage], rabbit or chicken, crawfish (cigalas), prawns, green bell pepper, mussels, green beans, green peas. Not everything every time, though.”

Even not using everything every time, that’s one bounteous paella . . . At home, though, with a nice pile of tiny New Jersey artichokes on the cutting board, I wanted to keep it a bit simpler. For starters, I pared the sofrito down to onion, minimal garlic and a tomato, flavored with saffron and rosemary and slowly cooked in olive oil until thick. The fridge yielded neither botifarra nor cigalas, but there certainly were green beans and pork, both from the farmers’ market. In fact, I had two thick pork chops in the house, from which I hewed the bones (with plenty of adjacent meat) and a few chunks of the fattier, more succulent parts of the flesh to cook with the rice.

Here’s how I made my stripped down version of what I will always think of as Marta’s mother’s arròs amb carxofes (which, incidentally, I have no idea how to pronounce, though I plan to learn). I seasoned the pork with salt, pepper and pimentón and browned it well in olive oil. It rendered quite a lot of delicious fat, and I spooned most of this out (I subsequently drizzled much of it over the rice when I got a better sense of how things were going). Then, in went the artichokes, trimmed down to their tender leaves and cut in half lengthwise, along with a handful of green beans. When these were nicely coated with fat I stirred in the sofrito, then added liquid: half chicken stock, half water, salted and infused with a little saffron. When it came to the boil, in went the rice (half as much, by volume, as the liquid, with a little more water or stock added as the dish cooked); I tasted for salt and added some more, along with pepper and rosemary.

Once the rice was cooked, I let it rest for fifteen minutes or so, covered with a cloth, before serving.

For me the big surprise was that, even with the sofrito, even with the pork, the flavor of the artichokes came through with perfect clarity. That’s what I get for doubting a Catalan cook, even for a minute, on a matter of arròs.

But, having tipped my hat to Schneider (which should apease those outraged by my previous post), I still stand by Bittman (much to the chagrin of the Mr. Anonymouse Comment Poster).

Barcelona's Most Affordable Seafood (allegedly)

2009-08-10T10:00:00.000-07:00

So Barcelona's Best Paella Restaurants has been a full success, but in the event that you are headed to Barcelona this autumn ("I will always prefer Barcelona in October" - Carlos Ruiz Zafon), then try this seafood joint, which keeps surfacing on my radar: LA PARADETA.

From the Examiner.com: "The restaurant’s unique concept of imitating a fish store is genius. As you walk in amongst the clinking and clanking, yelling from the kitchen, and nonstop ringing of the cash registers you’ll look around more than once to make sure that you are in fact at a restaurant, and not in the middle of a market [and] the low prices and friendly atmosphere of this restaurant keep it packed all night long.Before I go on, take into consideration that Barcelona is one of the Mediterranean’s busiest ports and that my friend, means that your meal won’t be fresher than if you went out and tried to catch it yourself. Find in front of you the catch of the day sorted and awaiting your order on ice. Pick from the most succulent scallops, fleshy scrumptious lobster, or jumbo shrimp, amongst others- all priced by weight. The hardest decision you may have to make as your stomach growls is how you want your food cooked. Don’t worry- whether it’s steamed or grilled, marinara or lemon butter- know that it will be great. Once your food is ready in the kitchen, your number will be called to pick up your food. My recommendations- serious, serious recommendations are to 1. Order the bread and 2. Order the Vino Turbio. The bread is crispy and warm, breaks when you part it, and is great to soak up the sauces from your grilled octopus or steamed garlic prawns, while the wine is one of Spain’s most refreshing and affordable (you can buy it for about 2 Euros at the supermarket). If you haven’t been able to tell yet- this place is one of the most relaxed and low key places to eat at in Barcelona. Regardless of the fact that it’s located in a trendy neighborhood comparable to let's say, the Soho of the City, there is no dress code, not much decoration on the walls, no waitstaff and no egos. This place is all about the food and nothing else- at the end of the day- isn’t this what restaurants should be about? LaParadeta, located in El Born is easily accessible by the L1 train stop at Arc de Triomf or the L4 at Jaume I. Remember my comment on the table hawkers? This place usually has a line at most times of the evening and depending on how late you get there you may have a longer and longer wait time."

A ringing endorsement indeed . . .

Vandevelde's Post-Tour-de-France Cėlėbration

2009-08-03T20:36:00.000-07:00

According to the ever-relevant Twitter, one of the USA's premiere cycling talents, Christian Vandevelde, celebrated the culmination of the Tour de France as follows:

Rode to the beach today where Beers and Lobster Paella awaited me. Leaving for San Sebastian tomorrow already, bummer.

This "Tweet" is significant for 2 reasons: First, it solidifies the fact that there is no better way to celebrate having just cycled 2174 miles around France in 3 weeks than with a Lobster Paella and Beer. Secondly, like everything else, Twitter has absorbed the realm of Paella . Now, all Paella aficionados must "follow" and "tweet" and all that stuff in order to have a complete understanding of who is eating Paella, and where . . .

Corn Paella? Seriously Schneider?

2009-07-27T16:43:00.000-07:00

This highly controversial version of Paella was featured in the NY Times today, by some heretic named Edward Schneider (sounds like a Paella expert, right?). Corn in Paella? No, you can't do it. Never. It's creative, but blasphemous, like pantsing the priest mid-sermon. If only Spaniards read the NY Times, this Schneider guy would be burned at the stake. His perversion is as follows:

I was looking forward to the start of corn season. I always do, of course, but this year the plan was to incorporate corn into my Paella Project: employing the rice and the technique used to make those Spanish rice dishes, but with ingredients that few Iberian grandmothers would think of. The planning was influenced by a visit to restaurant Jean Georges the night before the farmers’ market: we had a stunning dish of black bass with chanterelle mushrooms and corn, and those flavors wouldn’t get themselves out of my head.

So the next day we bought a few ears of corn and some beautiful young leeks at the Union Square greenmarket, as well as a bunch of tarragon (gigantic leaves, but extremely flavorful). Then, Jackie and I walked west to Chelsea Market, where the greengrocer – Manhattan Fruit Exchange – besides being one of the too-few places in town where you can get crunchy, salty corn nuts, often sells nice mushrooms, and by happenstance they had particularly aromatic chanterelles at a fair price.

What more was there to think about? Our dinner started with chicken stock lightened with a like amount of water, simmered for a few minutes with tarragon and a corn cob from which I’d stripped the kernels. While it was simmering, I sweated in butter a couple of leeks, sliced and carefully washed. When they were mostly cooked, I added the chanterelles.

A note on preparing the mushrooms: after trimming away any unappetizing bits, I tore the larger ones in two lengthwise: their fibrous anatomy makes this easy. Then – and this is where I differ from some other cooks – I dumped them into a big bowl of water and sloshed them around to remove the dirt and heaven knows what else, just as I had done with the leeks. Immediately – immediately – I scooped them out of the water and tossed them into the pan with the leeks. I think that chanterelles taste best when cooked in a moist environment rather than sautéed over high heat, so immersing them briefly in water does no harm at all.

From then on, it was just like any paella: I added the corncob- and tarragon-scented diluted chicken stock and, when it came to the boil, the rice and a leaf or two of additional tarragon. When the rice was very nearly done, I broke the rule about not disturbing paella and folded in the corn kernels previously cut from the cob. A minute or two later, I turned off the heat, covered the pan with a cloth and opened a bottle of white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. By the time Jackie and I had decided we really liked the wine, a glass or so later, the rice was ready to eat.

By avoiding the typical start to a paella – a concentrated vegetable sofrito – I kept the flavors very clear: the chanterelles, the leeks, the corn and certainly the tarragon were all there for the tasting. Delicious.

Next stage in the Paella Project: my Catalan friend Marta’s mother’s artichoke rice. Doesn’t that sound fabulous?

I bet Schneider snuck this piece into print before Mark Bittman saw it. Otherwise, I just lost a lot of faith in Bittman.

Snails in Paella?

2009-07-14T15:59:00.001-07:00

You bet! I have had quite a backlash from the previous post where I highlighted a Snail and Rabbit Paella on my backyard firepit. So I figured that further clarification was needed, and I have asked the Snail Expert to elaborate on this delicacy. The following is a Paella Professor Guest Post by Curtis Booth of Salt Lake City:

"Cornu aspersum. The French call them escargot petit gris, or ‘little gray snail’. We call them brown garden snails, or just common snails. They’re pests in our gardens, as they’ll eat practically anything, and they’re impossible to get rid of. The best thing to do is just think of them as little pieces of meat.

They originally came from European areas around the Mediterranean. The Romans distributed them, probably unintentionally, throughout the empire, undoubtedly with shipments of fruit and vegetables. That’s also how they ended up in your back yard. (Not because of the Romans, however; that was earlier.)

These aren’t the ones called escargots that you can buy canned or that are served in fancy French restaurants. Those are Helix pomatia, and they are larger than our brown snails. Besides the wild type form in your garden, there are several cultivated forms of Cornu aspersum, which may have a less colorful shell, but which may also become noticeably larger in size, such as the Blond des Flandres (Helix aspersa maxima) from France and Belgium. In Spain, where you can buy them in the markets, they call our brown snails, and other species, caracoles, or in Catalan caracols. They are a traditional ingredient of paella.

The systematic name comes from Latin cornu, which means ‘horn’ (because of the shape of the shell—think conch) and aspersum, which means ‘sprinkled on’. And I quote, from somewhere on the intertubes: ‘The often used systematic name Helix aspersa is incorrect, as the species certainly is not of the genus Helix. The opinions only differ as to which genus the species is to be put into—Cornu, according to Falkner (1997), or Cantareus, according to Giusti (1995).’

After that pedantic excursion, we should get back to the little pieces of meat. Snails have been eaten by humans since prehistoric times, probably way back, since they’re nutritious, plentiful, and easy to catch. They have few calories and little fat and are rich in calcium. They contain vitamins B1 and E and supply various essential amino acids.

The problem that you have to solve is preparing them. You can’t just catch them and eat them because you don’t know what they’ve been eating. So you need to confine them for a while, control their diet, and let them purge themselves of whatever you don’t want to eat. So here’s what I did:

I got a plastic container from Walmart for about three and a half bucks. Then I drilled some holes in it for ventilation. I caught thirty or so snails (I went out at night with a flashlight after it’d rained, watering the garden’ll bring them out too) and put them in the container with a handful of polenta, although any kind of cornmeal or bran would work. Then I left them down the basement where it’s not too hot.

After about a week I washed them off, cleaned their container, and put in fresh polenta. Here’s what they looked like in their container with the lid off:

Most of them had sealed the opening of their shell with a membrane called an epiphragm, which helps them retain moisture. They do this when it’s dry or cold. It means they’ve pretty much purged themselves of whatever nastiness they’ve been eating. They still cling to the container even when they’re estivating. Here’s a picture of Buddy and Sally showing off their epiphragms and a couple of the reasons why you want to clean them and their container:
I put them in a colander to wash them off and keep them from running away while I cleaned the container. They broke out of their epiphragms and become pretty lively:

Then I put them back in their clean container with another handful of polenta and left them for another week.

After two weeks, I deemed that they were ready to get ready to eat. I carefully cleaned them off in the colander again and put them in a pot of barely simmering water for about twenty minutes. (This first cooking kills them and prevents them from producing the slime that they use to locomote.) Then I rinsed them once more in cool water and proceeded with the recipe for arroz con conejo y caracoles. Almost all of the guests that Saturday afternoon in Paella Professor’s backyard at least tried a snail, and some ate a bunch. The paella cookoff was a success, and we all had a little adventure in eating. Snails. Ancient and traditional food. Not just for paella. You should try them."

[Paella Professor wishes to thank Curtis Booth for his contribution hereto]

The Final Product:

Snail & Rabbit Paella

2009-07-12T12:53:00.001-07:00

I threw this firepit together in a hurry in my backyard once my Uncle Curtis called to tell me had snails ready to go . . . (gather the snails in your yard, and stick them in a bag with cornmeal for 2 weeks so they dont taste like the crap they have been eating, then wash). Below is the rabbit, snails, and tomato-based broth going on to the fire.Stir . . . stir . . . stir . . . stir (but NEVER stir once the rice is in).
Now the rice and safforn is in, the snails and rabbit are enjoying the flavors of the broth, the coals are hot, and we let it bubble away
Then we added grape vine clippings ('sarmientos') which smoke like crazy before they finally burn . . . which adds a great smoked flavor.
. . . and then the SOCARRAT!

It is a great thing to have a firepit in your backyard . . .

'La Abuela' of Paella Restaraunts

2009-07-08T13:40:00.000-07:00

The Grandmother of all Paella Restaraunts . . . or thus it has been called. We are talking about the one and only La Pepica in Valencia (as featured in the Boston Globe today). Founded in 1898, rumor has it that you still walk through the kitchen in order to get to your table. And with over 25 variations of Paella, you are sure to find something to your liking. Hemingway raved about La Pepica (to the extent that Hemingway can rave, which is probably more like "the paella at La Pepica was good and the hills were brown and the wine left a flavor of rust in my mouth"). Orson Welles visited La Pepica as well, but after Hemingway, who cares?

Truth be told, in all of my jaunts to Valencia, I don't think that I have ever even seen La Pepica. But with the frequency with which it comes up on my radar, next time I am in the city of oranges and mediterranean water, I will surely make it a point to walk through La Pepica's kitchen.

Paella Hiatus

2009-06-24T15:21:00.000-07:00

There will be no Paella made in Spain for a few days following the catastrophic loss of Spain's national soccer team (ranked #1 in the WORLD) to the lowly USA. And so Paella Professor will also have a moment of silence for the fallen Spaniards:

[SILENCE].

Paella in the Summer Months

2009-06-05T10:20:00.000-07:00

'El Gran Mes De Junio' is upon us (the month of June), and there is no better time to get out and really master the nuts and bolts of the Paella. Why is summer the best time to be a Paella fanatic? Because of the availability of fires and barbecues!

The Case For Fire: No Paella is truly authentic without a fire under the Paella pan. And not just any fire, but a fire of orange-wood, or grape-vine wood. The Spaniards say that pine is too smoky. Let the fire simmer down before you put anything on it, otherwise you will burn the dickens out of your garlic. As the Paella cooks, keep a low flame flickering under there. The smoky aroma will make you think you are on the Costa Brava . . . truly a great exercise for a weekend evening!
The Case For BBQ: The grill comes in a close second to an actual fire when it comes to Paella. The 'grill' flavor is much better than inside on a stove, but comes up a pinch short of the smoky flavor of a fire. But in terms of convenience, the grill becomes a viable option. In fact, I'll be honest, 90% of the Paellas I make are done on the grill. Plus you have the added bonus of not having to juggle the fire and the ingredients. You just turn the grill to the heat you want, it and it burns away without any further thought.
STOKE THE FIRE or FIRE UP THE GRILL!

"I've decided the act that cannot wait is the important will to create . . . but I've been known to reach the bed, ideas still famished in my head." - Romany Payne.

Devastating News for "La República"

2009-05-19T12:22:00.001-07:00

This has nothing to do with Paella, but according to the BBC, The 'Generalisimo' Francisco Franco only had one testicle! Evidently, one of his 'huevos' was blown off in a military operation near Ceuta in June 1916. Now Franco joins the rank of other famous monorchids like Lance Armstrong and Adolf Hitler. We offer our post-mortem condolences to Franco.

Paella Undermines Unrest?

2009-05-12T10:01:00.000-07:00

Last week's Wall Street Journal piece, "Spain Largely Avoids Unrest Even As Economy Slumps," highlights Spain's claim to its national attribute: 'TRANQUILIDAD,' even in the face of mounting unemployment. Is it that Spaniards don't care? Is all of Spain lethargic? Apathetic? Look at these numbers!

The Wall Street Journal claims that "the very factors that make some European economies sluggish and inflexible during times of plenty also help cushion the impact of the downturn. Spain exemplifies this. During the good times, its economy is held back by low productivity, an extensive underground economy and scant labor mobility. Studies show that Spaniards are unusually reluctant to move away from their home region -- a trait that acts as a drag on the economy." Although true, it is far too simple of an explanation. Why don't Spaniards riot?
Because, why riot when you can stand around on dirt lots and make Paellas over the fire? There is too much good in life to sit around and worry about economics and markets and bureaucracy and deficits. In Spain, they simply worry about olive oil, sunshine, lemons, sausage, and really cool aprons. Yes, Paella undermines unrest.

A Suggestion for Dessert

2009-05-04T14:53:00.000-07:00

Dessert can be tricky after a large Paella. Simply put, 'Americanized' desserts (cakes, brownies, Ding-Dongs, etc.) just don't go well as an afterthought to Paella. Instead, try a small bowl of Vanilla Yogurt with Berries. Or to be even more authentic, try passing around a block of Manchego Cheese. Yes, I remember sitting at an old wooden table on the outskirts of Tarragona on a rainy Sunday evening passing around the Manchego cheese after a lightly-burned but strongly-flavored Paella. And my final suggestion: Sliced Apples (also a favorite dessert in Spain's nether-regions).

The 3rd Ideal Town for Paella; Barcelona

2009-04-24T08:22:00.001-07:00

[Editor's Note: This is the third episode in a series entitled "The Best Towns in Which To Eat Paella."]Just in time for the announcement of the 3rd best town in Spain to eat Paella (BARCELONA), the New York Times published 36 Hours in Barcelona today. My convictions about Barcelona's Paella are well-known (much to Valencia's chagrin, but Valencia will have its day).

Barcelona is simply an experience of sensory overload, as too are its Paella options. The NY Times mentions that the once gritty Barcelona neighborhoods of Born, El Raval, and Barceloneta are now home to some of the city's finest restaurants and boutiques. I have left these neighborhoods virtually unexplored in my time in Barcelona, so who knows what kind of Paella talent is lurking in those avenues.

And if Paella doesn't catch your fancy, perhaps 'the best sandwich you will ever eat' (as per Mark Bittman) will tide you over. The locale is Cafe Viena and the sandwich is 'la flauta d'iberic jabugo,' a simple, salty masterpiece of crispy bread and lightly cured ham. And Bittman (star of Spain On The Road Again) usually knows his stuff.

To amend Hemingway's prose from A Moveable Feast, "if you are lucky enough to have lived in [Barcelona] as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for [Barcelona] is a moveable feast." And that is why it is the third greatest locale on earth to eat Paella.

Another Ideal Town for Paella; Besalú

2009-04-21T14:01:00.000-07:00

[Editor's Note: This is the second episode in a series entitled "The Best Towns in which to Eat Paella." The first episode considered Cadaqués]Oh yes, Besalú. This tiny little spot on the map lies 7 miles south of France at the edge of the Pyrenees on the bank of the ancient Fluviá River. Its 12th century Romanesque bridge leads into a dark maze of bleak cobblestone streets that are as mystifying as they are amazing. And why Paella in Besalú? First of all, the whole town is surrounded by a satellite arrangement of ancient gardens which are full of mountain tomatoes and peppers that are sure to taste like the soil of Spain. Secondly, Besalú's location is sure to create a good amount of mountain sausage and lambchops, both of which make for a great mountain paella.

Like Cadaqués, I once spent a day in this shadow of a town all by myself. All morning, old men eyed me carefully as I strolled past their gardens. It was another world. The Besalú Paellas must be spectacular!

An Ideal Town for Paella; Cadaqués

2009-04-14T10:51:00.000-07:00

If I had to choose just ONE dot along the map of Spain in which to enjoy an evening Paella, it would be Cadaqués (sorry Valencia). Just a stone's throw from France, it is an amazing white-washed little town on the Mediterrenean accessible ONLY by car or bus (i.e. no train, which is saying something in Europe). I once spent a day in Cadaqués all by myself with nothing to do, and it was the 13th best day of my life. Even Pablo Picasso, Josep Pla, Salvador Dali, Pau Casals and Gabriel Garcia Marquez made frequent visits to Cadaqués for artistic inspiration and 'tranquilidad.' Indeed, a Paella under a stone arcade as the evening sun falls into the sea and the hills behind town turn to shadows would be an ideal setting to enjoy a Paella.

Rosemary in Paella . . .

2009-04-06T13:46:00.000-07:00

Rosemary is native to the Mediterranean region, so you could bet your better-self that historically it has been included in Paellas across Spain. But to what extent? I'll be honest: I don't think it has been used that much. And I'll be honest about one more thing: I only use rosemary when my Paella has Lamb in it.

The reason is that rosemary (without lamb) can be a bit overpowering. But with a few lamb shanks in the Paella, the flavor is nicely disbursed. So just sprinkle some olive oil, salt and rosemary on the lamb and throw it in the paellera with the garlic and onion, and you'll love the result.

TIP: If you are making your Paella on the grill, take the rosemary-laden-lamb out of the Paella and set it on the grill for a few minutes to char it with that grill flavor. Then reintroduce it back into the Paella to enfuse the rice with a light smoky flavor.

Paella's Base: El Tomate

2009-03-24T16:22:00.001-07:00

Perhaps no ingredient is as essential to the Paella as The Tomato! And perhaps there is no better time to discuss tomatoes than the beginning of April. Yes indeed, it's time to get out in the garden and grow your tomatoes with the rest of Spain for your Paella-filled summer.

Now, the tomato debate does not necessarily turn on whether or not to use tomatoes in your Paella, rather it turns on the question of 'in what form?' Your options are i) chopped / sliced tomatoes, ii) grated tomatoes, or iii) tomato sauce. I usually use the first option (heavily) and the third(lightly). I know that Jose Andres grates his tomatoes. But use FRESH tomatoes if you can, and go easy on the canned tomato sauce (even though Gwyneth is a stauch advocate). In the end, whatever form you choose, the tomato will simply come undone and make a nice tomato base.

You cannot underestimate the tomato's role in Paella. In fact, I recently saw that Mark Bittman makes a "Tomato Paella" with no meat, seafood, sausage, or shellfish . . . just tomato. Granted, it's a bit unorthodox, but here is his rundown.

And in the very least, surely an evening of Tomato Paella is a better use of tomatoes than the now world-renowned "La Tomatina" which takes place in Paella's birthplace . . . Valencia, Spain.

A Culinary Irony Indeed!

'The Present;' Spring in Spain

2009-03-24T15:43:00.000-07:00

"The pleasure we derive from the representation of the present is due, not only to the beauty it can be clothed in, but also to its essential quality of being The Present." - Charles Baudelaire

There's no time like the present springtime to sit back against a graffiti-littered white-washed wall and really focus on the subtleties of Paella; tomatoes, rosemary, sofregit, la música española, and off-the-beaten-path towns that breathe the essence of Paella.

[Spoiler Alert: All of these topics are forthcoming]

La Soccarat

2009-03-24T08:17:00.001-07:00

Paella's finishing touch, La Soccarat, is the most simple yet most elusive part of the process. La Soccarat is the slightly burned crust of rice on the bottom of the Paella pan (i.e. the tinge of black on the photo below). Why would you intentionally burn the rice? Well first, it is only a slight burn, and second, because it adds an orchard-like authenticity to your Paella that you're sure to remember for weeks.

Legend has it that to achieve a good Soccarat, you should turn up the heat when the Paella is near completion, and then . . . listen closely . . . and the Paella will start to crackle ever so subtley. In my experience, this is a bit easier said than done. But it doesn't hurt to try.

As Paella gains international recognition, the subtleties of the Paella are even becoming 'urban hip.' For example, I recently read in the NY Times that there is a Paella Bar in Manhattan called Soccarat (above). Who would have thought? Regardless, the NY Times suggests that the Soccarat "is the most rewarding part [of the Paella], with nutty, toasty nuances." Very well said (I suppose).

Temporary Lockdown

2009-03-19T10:35:00.000-07:00

The Paella Professor will be locked down for just a few days while I make my new house livable by means of heavy lifting, painting walls, ripping out carpet, finishing hardwood floors, installing shelves, and other 'home improvement' traditions.

For a good summary of my current situation, please read "Driving Over Lemons; An Optimist in Spain" by Chris Stewart. I'll be back before you finish the first two chapters. Hasta pronto . . .

La Calçotada

2009-03-16T15:30:00.000-07:00

From time to time, we may need a brief respite from Paella, so the end of March is rolling around just in time for 'La Calçotada,' a delicious Catalan festival which takes place at the end of winter.

I first witnessed 'La Calçotada' while in Tarragona (a hidden city an hour south of Barcelona on the Mediterranean coast). But supposedly, the whole gig originates in Valls (pictured below), a small inland town in Catalunya. And what a festival! Young and old alike consume tons (literally) of 'Calçots.' So what is a Calçot?
A Calçot is a type of scallion / onion from the hills of Catalunya. It is typically milder and more aerodynamic than an onion. They are planted in trenches and remain buried throughout Spain's autumn and winter afternoons . . . and then in late March . . . TO THE GRILL.
During 'La Calçotada,' the Calçots are vine roasted (i.e. roasted on a fire of vines) and dipped in Salvitxada or Romesco sauce. However, as Cervantes noted centuries ago, "hunger is the best sauce in the world."

A la La Calçotada

'Authentic' Paella

2009-03-13T15:42:00.000-07:00

If any Paella can be deemed completely 'authentic,' then I suppose it would be 'la Valenciana' (due to the Paella's Valencian origins). Valencia (below) is a Mediterranean Metropolis unlike any other. And it's Paella is the same way.

Paella Valenciana is striking for its simplicity. In fact, I recently received an email from a Valencian woman who told me (rather forcefully) that 'Authentic Valencian Paella' never ever has sausage (use rabbit instead), red bell peppers (use green beans instead), or onion (all of which I use in my Paellas as staple ingredients). And so the debate rolls on . . .

This guy (below) gives a pretty good run-down of 'Paella a la Valenciana,' so have a look and enjoy your elitist authenticity with the rest of the Valencians when you make it.

The Flavor of Words; Paella & Literature

2009-03-11T20:41:00.001-07:00

I can't help but to love literary passages that implicate Paella. For example, I am currently reading Snowball Oranges; A Winter's Tale on a Spanish Isle by Peter Kerr with this rich passage:

'Sunday is the day of the Majorcan family, the day for a drive into the mountains to cook Paella over a wood fire . . . the day to visit a quiet, pine-fringed cove for a stroll by the harbor or, perhaps . . . crowding into the country restaurants that specialize in that gloriously clamorous afternoon celebration of prandial conviviality - the Majorcan Sunday Lunch.'

But, no Paella-based literature compares to an obscure book I once found in Pepperdine University's library, Spain's Cause Was Mine, by Hank Rubin. In the passage, Hank Rubin, a UCLA student who enlisted to fight in the Spanish Civil War against Franco, tells the story of being out on the front for months on end. Rain, cold, mud, hunger, thundering explosions illuminating dense darkness, and the constant boredom of nagging fear lined his days in the trenches. It was a depressing existence; the bleak, stark, war-torn reality of 1934 Spain. In the midst of the embattled routine, an anarchist chef made a monster Paella one evening for the brigade as the sun set over the Ebro river. The smells of the Paella over the fire at dusk brought tears to soldiers' eyes. Finally, some respite, some cultural resurrection in the midst of thick inhumanity. And then, as the Paella neared completion, the hum and whistle of oncoming fighter planes penetrated the evening. Devastated soldiers ran for cover. But Hank Rubin couldn't leave the Paella. He dove to the side of a rock at the fire's side and hoped for the best. As explosions rattled his chest, he stole burning handfuls of overwhelmingly flavorful Paella as tears of life fell from his chin.

If any of you can find the book, look for this passage. It is wonderful.

NOTE: In an attempt to marry the literature of Spain with the flavors of Paella, I have added a Literature List to your right. Each selection has the flavor of Paella and the berets of Spain laced throughout its pages. Please enjoy the reading. I have.

The Sacred Seafood Paella

2009-03-10T08:00:00.000-07:00

Get your nets mended, because the Seafood Paella is perhaps the most internationally celebrated of all Paellas! It also tends to be the richest, strongest, and boldest of all Paellas. And because the Paella originated in Valencia (on the Mediterranean coast), many Spaniards believe the Seafood Paella to be the ultimate in Spanish symbolism . . . so here is my rundown:

Get your Paella pan down from the nail on the wall in the orchard.

Add 1 Cup Olive Oil into the Paella pan. Add to the heat (hopefully a fire, or a grill, or a stovetop, in that order).

Add 1 Cup Chopped Onions into the pan. Simmer on low for 1 or 2 minutes. Get those Onions beautifully coated in Oil.

Add 5 - 8 Cloves of Chopped / Minced Garlic. Stir for a minute or two.

Add 3 - 6 Tomatoes (Chopped, Grated, however you want, because the Tomatoes will just come undone anyway).
Add 3-4 Chopped Red Peppers.

Add Calamari rings (10 -30 depending on how much you like them)

Stir and let simmer on medium for another 2 minutes.
OPTIONAL: Add a 1 Cup of Tomato Sauce. Stir.
Add HOT water until the ingredients in the pan are all 'just' submerged. NOTE: Make sure to remember how much water you add because the amount of rice you will add in Step 14 will depend on the amount of water.

Add Boullion Cubes (chicken or fish) to taste . . . normally 5 - 10 (make sure you crumble them between your fingers, or use the already-powdered version).

Add a Shake or Two or Three of Salt (or Four if you feel lively).

Stir and turn the heat to HIGH.

Once the Paella is lightly boiling, add the RICE! The ratio of Water to Rice is 2 to 1. Thus, if you put in 10 cups of water, add 5 cups of rice.

Add Saffron (just a pinch or two).

Add Clams (10 - 20) by jamming them down into the rice with a spoon.
STIR ONE MORE TIME, Reduce the Heat, and let the Paella Simmer for Nearly an Hour or until the water is nearly cooked off.

When the water is nearly cooked off, add Shrimp to the top and gently push down into the Rice.

When the Shrimp is cooked (2 minutes is all it takes), take the Paella off the Heat, let it cool, and Squeeze some Fresh Lemons on top . . . Enjoy!

AND REMEMBER THE PAELLA MOTTO: A Paella is all based on taste, so if you need more salt or garlic or saffron or anything, just add it. Don't worry so much about specific measurements. Just throw it in and it will be perfect. You think this lady uses a recipe? Not a chance!
DISCLAIMER: Many people will add Mussles. I, for one, do not like Mussles because they are so pungeant that they take over the Paella . . . but if you like them, they are commonplace in your typical Seafood Paella, so have at it!

NFL Paella?

2009-03-07T13:24:00.000-08:00

I never would have thought that the phrase "NFL Paella" would have ever been spoken. But my brother brought to my attention the Sunday Night Football NFL Cookbook which highlights certain NFL players' favorite dishes.Kris Brown of the Houston Texans chose Paella with Blackened Shrimp. Now, to be fair, the authenticity of this Paella is terribly lacking (as noted by my (?!)'s below), but we'll give the authors points for creativity (I suppose). Here is the run-down:

Coat the bottom of the Paella pan with Olive Oil and add to heat.
Add lightly salted chicken and pork until lightly browned.
Add Onions, Garlic, (Jalapenos (?!)), Red Peppers, and stir.

Add Sausage.

Stir on low heat for 5 minutes.

TRANSFER EVERYTHING INTO A BIG BOWL.

Add Rice to the Oil in the Paella Pan and stir for 2 minutes.

RETURN EVERYTHING IN BOWL INTO PAELLA PAN.

Add Red Wine, Saffron, Pineapple Juice (?!), Cocunut Milk (?!) and Stir.

Cover (?!) and let simmer for 35 minutes.

While the Paella cooks, Blacken the Shrimp in Butter (?!).

When Paella is finished, add Blackened Shrimp to the Top.

Serve!

Now, I'll be honest, I seriously doubt that I will EVER make this Paella (if you can even call it Paella). But if you are feeling creative, give it a try and let me know how it is. I bet it is not good.

Paella's Voice . . . Jose Andres

2009-03-02T17:57:00.000-08:00

In terms of creating buzz about Paella in the US, nobody has been more influential than Jose Andres. With his great Barcelona-laced accent, he is the overly-enthusiastic host of MADE IN SPAIN on PBS. This weekend, the WALL STREET JOURNAL ran an informative article on him.

Jose began cooking at age 15 when, after failing high-school, he entered culinary school in Barcelona. Then a stint at the uber-famous El Bulli with Ferran Adria altered the course of his life forever. One day, he showed up late to a meeting, and he and Adria lost their tempers, and before he knew it, Jose was on his way to the US in 1991 with $48 in his pocket. Now he is an international television star and owner of restaurants in Beverly Hills (Bazaar) and Washington DC (Jaleo and Zaytina).
Jose Andres was also the FIRST Paella guru to publicly use a Barbecue to cook Paella (as we shall discuss in subsequent posts). "I won't rest until every American family has a Paella cooking away on the backyard grill," proclaimed Jose Andres. So here's to you and your grill, Jose Andres! (Take a look at this clip below to be infused with Catalan enthusiasm):

The Finishing Touch on Paella . . .

2009-02-27T09:35:00.000-08:00

It's as simple as this: when you remove the Paella from the heat to let it cool, squeeze some fresh lemon wedges over the top. Or even better, wait until the Paella is served and let your guests administer their own lemon. Either way, the lemon adds a hint of that famous mediterranean sunshine to the rice. It is a MUST!

It's thought that the Lemon was brought to Spain by the Arabs around the year 1000 AD. Thus, there were lemon trees galore on the Mediterranean coast when the Paella was born in the 19th century. Simply put, I cannot imagine that many lemons historically escaped the hot rice of two centuries of Paellas along Valencia's coast. Trust me on this one; the Lemon is essential!

Gwyneth Paltrow's Paella

2009-02-19T16:31:00.001-08:00

Gwyneth Paltrow recently starred in the PBS travel-documentary SPAIN . . . ON THE ROAD AGAIN. The program consisted of 13 episodes of Gwyneth parading around Spain with Mario Batali, Mark Bittman from the New York Times, and Barcelona actress Claudia Bassols.

In Episode 112, Gwyneth Paltrow and Mario Batali (who I fortuitously cropped out of the photo below) make Paella with a pissy old man from Valencia. In typical "old man in Spain" fashion, he waves off their questions and grunts his disapproval throughout the clip. But what really caught my eye was the simplicity of his authentic Paella. Here is his run-down:

Olive oil (just coat the bottom of the 'Paellera')

Onion (a cup or two . . . just eye it)
Tomato Sauce (a few cups)
Cuttlefish

Saffron. . . then stir stir stir.

Paprika (maybe a cup)
Fish Broth (to cover the ingredients in the paella thus far)

Clams

Rice (in the cross)

And then top it off with 4 to 5 crayfish / whole shrimps once the broth has evaporated.

As mentioned, the INTERESTING part about Gwyneth's Paella is its simplicity. No red peppers, no tomatoes, no chicken, no lamb, no sausage, no beans, nothing spectacular. It just goes to show that a good Pealla is as varied as the Spaniard people that make them, showing us once again that there is no correct way to make a Paella.

The Best Paella in Barcelona

2009-02-17T11:47:00.000-08:00

"Paella in Barcelona?" you might ask. While the purists will tell you to get on the first train leaving Sants Estacio toward Valencia, open-minded Catalanistas will tell you to hold your horses!
The best Paella I have ever eaten was in Barcelona. Now granted, the man who cooked it was from Valencia (saludos a Federico 'cico' el calvo), but good Paella is all around Barcelona . . . you just have to know where to find it. So here is my list of the top 5 locales serving the best Paella in Barcelona:

Lombardo, on Rambla Catalunya 49 (not 'the' Ramblas, but the avenue that runs west from Placa Catalunya toward the hill, which is much more authentic and lovely than 'the' Ramblas),

Pitarra, in the Barrio Gotic, on Calle Avinyo 56,

Can Majo, in Barceloneta, on L'Almirall Aixada 23,

Can Ros, also in Barceloneta, on L'Almirall Aixada 7,

Sete Portes, on Passeig Isabel II 14.

In addition, some people have told me that if you have good timing, you can find Paella in the hidden corners of the world-famous La Boqueria market. I have never been so lucky.

So don't be fooled, BARCELONA IS A CITY OF MAGNIFICENT PAELLAS! Just hit the cobblestones and start looking . . .

A 'Paella Van' for a 'Paella Man?'

2009-02-17T09:24:00.001-08:00

I took this photo of a beautifully Spanish van on the outskirts of Pamplona not long ago. At the time, it seemed to me to be a perfect paella-mobile; its rickety old wheels transporting pans and olive oil and rice to discreet corners of ancient orchards.

Not long after, I learned of the "Paella Man" (i.e. Gerard Nebesky) in San Francisco, who travels up and down California's coast 'catering' paellas (this is Gerard in red).

So over time, I couldn't help but put two and two together and wonder, "could an Intermountain West paella-catering gig actually succeed?" Give me your insight by voting in the poll on the right . . . and with some time, maybe we will bring paella to the ski bum masses in a beat-up Mercedes van!

Paella's Ode to Jesus - Rice in a Cross

2009-02-10T16:26:00.000-08:00

With unemployment soaring in Spain to nearly 15%, the 'jobless' have time to ponder spiritual things, especially the extent to which these spiritual things affect the greatest of life's loves: 'La Paella.'

(El Greco)

There is only one way to truly honor Jesus in our lives, and it is not to keep his commandments, nor honor his sacrifice, nor study his teachings. Rather, it is to pour your rice in a cross when making a Paella. Now, while I have seen great Paella chefs pour the rice erratically throughout the pan, such an exhibition has been the exception rather than rule. The great majority of Paella experts all agree: the rice is to be poured in the shape of a cross (please cross yourself now).

However, in a nation that is as Atheist as it is Catholic, I quickly came to realize that such a blessed act is as much a matter of functionality as it is a spiritual ordinance. How so? Pouring the rice into the Paella pan in a cross allows you to 'eye' the perfect amount of rice to be included. On the other hand, if you 'baptize' the rice into the Paella pan with no rhyme or reason, you can lose track of how much you have dumped in. But the form of the cross offers a functional, albeit religious, visual aid.

Paella's Best "Optional" Ingredients

2009-02-10T10:02:00.000-08:00

1. Spanish Pimenton - Paprika

"Pimenton" (or Paprika as English speakers call it) is merely smoked red pepper that is subsequently smashed into powder. Thus, since I always use fresh red peppers in Paella, I find this ingredient a bit repetitive. Nonetheless, many Spanish chefs swear by it. To be honest though, the times I have used it, I couldn't really taste it. So don't worry about throwing half a cup into the Paella because it probably won't alter the flavor too much. If you use it, put about half a cup in with the olive oil, garlic, and onion.

2. Green Peppers

I haven't used Green Peppers in any of my Paellas for years. The reason? Too many Spaniards call it a blatant act of blashpemy. But to be fair, I am convinced that the majority of poor Valencians once used Green Peppers in their Paellas. This vegetable is simply too prevelant in Spain to historically escape the hot oil of the Paella. If you do decide to throw some in, do so at the outset alongside the red peppers.

3. Peas

Peas are peas. Many Spaniards like the color and texture that a cup of simple peas adds to the Paella. But I'll be honest, I am not a huge fan of Peas in a Paella. Their relatively pungeant flavor is a distraction to the cleaner Mediterranean flavors. If you do add Peas, just throw them into the broth along with the rice because they only need a few minutes. (And by the way, frozen peas work just fine . . . throw them into that saffron-soaked broth and they will be thawed and cooked in 2 minutes).

4. Garbanzo Beans

Garbanzo beans are my favorite vegetable option. The Garbanzo's flavor is subtle enough that it merely takes on the underlying flavor of the Paella. And since the Garbanzo is native to Mediterranean soil, it is difficult to argue that it doesn't belong in a good Paella. Similar to the Peas, throw in a cup or two of Garbanzo's along with the rice.

5. Green Beans

To be honest, I have never actually made a Paella with Green Beans. But, I have eaten them in Spain. If you decide to try them, I would add them at the outset alongside your onions, garlic, and peppers. And if they turn out to be magnificent, let me know and I will give them a try.

Paella's Rice; An Elitist's Endeavor

2009-02-06T12:07:00.000-08:00

By its very nature, Paella is a rice dish, which begs the question: Which rice is the correct rice to use in Paella? Well now, depending on who you ask, you will get different answers. But, I reckon there are three general rules to choosing your Paella's perfect rice:

Never use long grain rice. Why? Because Spaniards say so (although I often use it if I don't have anything else, and it works just fine).

Medium grain rice is ideal. A medium grain rice (such as Goya) is a great choice for any Paella because it absorbs liquid very well, thereby absorbing the wonderful flavors of the Paella with ease.

Short grain rice also works very well. In fact, most Paella people prefer short grain rice (like Bomba, which also absorbs flavor well, if not better than medium grain rice). But my hang-up with this rice is that, although it performs well, it looks more like risotto than rice. Thus, your Paella will look stunted, rounded, and immature.

My Bottom Line: If you get too worked up over which rice to use, you will lose the spontaneity of a sun-filled afternoon under the trees . . . so don't worry about it. Just remember that the rice you use should be able to absorb lots of flavorful liquid, while at the same time not turning to mush.

Basic Care For Your Paella Pan

2009-02-04T11:26:00.000-08:00

Do you see the slight discoloration of this pan? It's beautifully normal. In fact, when you first use your pan, it will darken and change color to a bronzish type hue. This is just the pan becoming "seasoned." Some people mistake it for rust, but don't be 'tonto.' After each use, simply wash the pan, wipe it completely dry and then coat the entire pan with a thin (very thin) layer of olive oil. I like to lighlty rub the oil into the pan with a paper towel so it doesn't drip out, and then hang it up until next time.

The Pan - "Paellera" or "Paella"?

2009-02-04T08:40:00.000-08:00

The Paella pan is arguably one of the great symbols of the dish itself, and has even joined the bull, the flamenco dancer, and the black beret as a quintessential symbol of Spain. Yet, it seems that we still don't know what to call it. Is it a "Paella?" Is it a "Paellera?" Or do both terms work?

PAELLA: Typically, Valencianos call the actual Paella pan a "Paella." Thus, since the Paella originated in Valencia, what the Valencians do in regards to their Paella is authentic. If you want to appear to be proper and knowledgeable, call the pan a "Paella." Your elitist friends will be impressed.

PAELLERA: While "Paella" may be proper, in my mind the use of the word "Paellera" serves to eliminate any confusion as to whether the speaker is talking about the actual rice, or the actual pan. In fact, in most parts of Spain, Spaniards call the pan a "Paellera." It seems to be the functional term for the pan.

But in theory, both terms are correct, as stated by the Royal Spanish Academy, the body responsible for regulating the Spanish language. So don't get hung up on what to call it . . . just line the bottom with olive oil and get the fire started.

A Most Unorthodox Paella Ingredient

2009-02-02T10:33:00.000-08:00

I once sat next to a middle-aged man with a grey beard on a train in Barcelona who, with fire in his bones, told me that a Paella is not a Paella unless it has Artichoke.

"Artichoke?" I asked, "I have NEVER eaten a Paella with Artichoke."

"Bahhh," he responded with a wave of his hand, "then you have never eaten Paella."

So Artichoke in Paella? Yes, it can be done. And the artichoke is native to the Mediterranean region, so why not? In fact, a quick look at on-line Paella recipes will show you that the Artichoke is becoming a hip new ingredient in twenty-first century Paellas. My friend on the train suggested that an Artichoke be quartered and added to the hot oil from the outset (alongside the peppers). He promised me that, if nothing else, the Artichoke could be thrown away when the Paella is finished, but the flavor will remain . . . for years to come (Spaniards are the ultimate philosophers).

A Poor Man's Paella Recipe

2009-02-01T09:47:00.000-08:00

Since the Paella is a poor man's dish, the following is a quick poor man's version (feel free to leave any questions you might have in the COMMENTS section below):

To begin, you can use a 'Paella' (a shallow round pan which can be purchased on any of the ad sites to your right), or a big frying pan. The Paella pan is more fun and authentic, but the frying pan works equally well for a small Paella.

Add 1 Cup Olive Oil into the Paella pan. Add 1 Cup Chopped Onions into the pan. Simmer on low for 1 or 2 minutes. Get those Onions beautifully coated in Oil.

Add 5 - 8 Cloves of Chopped / Minced Garlic. Stir.

Add 2 Chicken Breasts (chopped to bite size pieces or in strips). Stir.

Add 3-5 Sausages (any kind of sausage works, but if you can find a LAMB sausage, it is delicious)(otherwise, the Adell's sausage (although pre-cooked) from Costco or in your supermarket also work well).

Stir and let simmer on medium for 5 minutes.

Add 3-4 Chopped Red Peppers.

Stir and let simmer on medium for another 5 minutes.

Add 3-4 Chopped Tomatoes.

Stir and let simmer on medium for another 5 minutes.

OPTIONAL: Add a 1 Cup of Tomato Sauce. Stir.

Stir and Simmer on a Medium Heat until Chicken appears to be 'Nearly' Cooked. The deliciousness of the smell should melt your face at this point.

Add HOT water until the ingredients in the pan are all 'just' submerged. NOTE: Make sure to remember how much water you add because the amount of rice you will add in Step 17 will depend on the amount of water.

Add Boullion Cubes to taste . . . normally 5 - 10 (make sure you crumble them between your fingers, or use the already-powdered version).

Add a Shake or Two or Three of Salt (or Four if you feel lively).

Stir and turn the heat to HIGH.

Once the Paella is lightly boiling, add the RICE! The ratio of Water to Rice is 2 to 1. Thus, if you put in 10 cups of water, add 5 cups of rice.

Add Saffron (just a pinch or two).

STIR ONE MORE TIME, Reduce the Heat, and let it Simmer for Nearly an Hour, or until water is cooked off.

Take it off the Heat, let it cool, and Squeeze some Fresh Lemons on top . . . Enjoy!

ONE FINAL NOTE: A Paella is all based on taste, so if you need more salt or garlic or saffron or anything, just add it. Don't worry so much about specific measurements. Just throw it in and it will be perfect. You'll see.

This is just a basic bare-bones version of a quick paella. But be sure to check back in order to master the artful intracacies of each step. Viva!

Paella's (oft-debated) Brief History

2009-01-29T15:54:00.001-08:00

No topic in God's great earth provokes more debate than the Paella. But alas, he who controls the past controls the future, and so it goes with the Paella. So before we dive into any lengthy intellectual argument about its origins, let's get the typical layperson's take. In other words, what would your run-of-the-mill Spaniard tell you on any cobblestone street?

The Paella originated in Valencia on the Mediterranean coast of Spain.

The Paella was originally a poor man's food.

The typical poor man used anything at his fingertips to create his Paella (olive oil, garlic, octopus, onion, sausage, peppers, snails, tomotoes, shrimp, peas, lamb, and of course, the two main keystone ingredients, saffron and rice).

The poor man always made the Paella outside on a fire preferrably in an orchard.

There is no right way or wrong way to make a paella.

But for a more detail-oriented take on the Paella, you may hear the following:

The word Paella is from the Latin patella (or pan). In 1840, a Valencian newspaper referred to "Paella" as the food as well as the pan, and since that day the word has two distinct meanings: the actual rice dish, and the pan it is cooked in.

The first true Paella was created in an orchard in the 18th Century on Lake Albufera outside of Valencia.

So with that albeit brief but manageable introduction, in the days to come the Paella Professor will explore the savory intracacies of all things PAELLA. Please check back often.